Cosmetic

Introduction French bio-cosmetics: a growth market

French bio-cosmetics: a growth market

Bio-cosmetics are a growth market across Europe. While organic foods are now an established part of consumer spending patterns, bio-cosmetics are still a novelty in most markets. There are convincing signs that the market is posed for rapid development.

To achieve a “bio” or organic label, a cosmetic product must contain at least 70% of organic components as well as:

• No synthetic product
• No petroleum-derivate products
• No perfume or colour agents
• No artificial additives
• No Vaseline, glycerin, paraffin or alcohol
• All ingredients must be produced without chemical treatment
• All essential oils used must be 100% pure and natural
• all packaging is recyclable and there is no testing on animals

There are two main label/certification agencies: Ecocert and Nature & Progrès. These are increasingly important for product referencing as there is no legislation in France concerning the use of “bio” or natural for cosmetics - only for food products. Set up in 1991, Ecocert is backed by the public sector and awards the “cosmébio” label. The agency also has a quality charter for ecological and organic cosmetics which stipulates a higher level of regulation and quality control than in the traditional cosmetic industry as well as a pro-active respect for the environment. Nature & Progrès go one step further in that they only award their label to producers of 100% pure products. While the Nature & Progrès label has existed for some 40 years, it only began awarding certifications to bio-cosmetics in 1997 – prior to this there was little interest.

France counts some 15 national bio-cosmetic brands today. They typically sell through select retail outlets rather than the larger department stores. Pricing points are usually higher than average products sold in large department stores but less than premium brands. Face creams for example, often retail for about €15 a pot versus €45 for premium brands.